Because the shed is designed to abut to another structure, the foundation need only be pressure-treated skids, the roof pitched in only one direction to shed water, and the back wall sheathed with 1/2-inch CDX plywood, which withstands indirect exposure to moisture. See Anatomy of an Outdoor Shed or Playhouse for more about typical shed construction.
Complete the siding, then remove the toe-screws and move the wall aside to make room for constructing the opposite wall. Use the same chalk line template and process to build the opposite end wall. Figure C shows framing details for the front wall. Mark the curves on the 2×10 header pieces using the trammel setup shown in Photo 12 and Figure G. Cut them with a jigsaw. When you’re done building the front and back walls, set them aside so you can use the platform to build the roof sections.
• Violations of building codes — before the beginning of construction of your shed, it is important to check for the building conducts set by the authorities in your town. You are not supposed to begin any construction works before applying for a permit from the local authorities. This helps you avoid a lot of time being wasted in lawsuits, paying fines and such inconveniences. If you had already begun building your shed before your permit is authorized by the authorities, they will demand you to start all over again. That leads you spending more money on the construction of the shed. During fitting of electric lighting, you are supposed to involve a legally certified electrician to avoid the long arm of the law and to avoid accidents as electrocution and even fire. The same laws apply to gas and water pipes installation.
Remember that anything you build will either add or detract from your property's appearance and may impact your property value. Metal and vinyl materials may be easier to maintain, but are the least expensive options and tend to look cheap. Natural wood and prefinished wood products will add character and value, but are typically more expensive to buy and maintain.
Before a hammer hits a nail: plan, plan, and plan some more. All too often people visit local home centers to get shed ideas. They go inside the prebuilt sheds in the parking lot and decide their own storage needs right then and there. Even worse, they'll grab a few brochures and use those ideas to find a shed design online without doing any proper space planning.
This is nothing but a pyramid scheme in disguise. Don't spend the first $37.00, they lead you to believe that you are getting discs and actual plans until you pay $37.00, then they tell you that you have to download everything but at an additional price. I'm calling the Fraud Department at the Texas State Attorney Generals office and reporting them.

Door placement is also important. You often see doors placed on the gable end of the building, which looks nice, but makes it virtually impossible to reach items stored at the rear of the shed. A better alternative is to put the door on the long side wall, so that you'll be able to access items to the right, left and back. Another option is to install doors on both gable-end walls, so that you'll be able to easily reach items from either end of the shed.
Start by setting deck blocks on the ground, positioned as shown in the plans. While the area doesn’t have to be perfectly level, you should make the ground roughly level where each block will rest. Temporarily place some straight 2-by-6 lumber on edge in the top grooves of the blocks to orient the blocks in a straight line. Arrange two rows of four blocks parallel to each other to form both long walls, then measure diagonally across the outside corners to determine how square the arrangement is. If the two long walls are parallel, and diagonal measurements taken across corners are equal, then each corner is guaranteed to be 90 degrees. Finish up by placing one deck block in the middle of each 6-foot wall after you have aligned and squared the 8-foot walls.
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